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The fastest way to clean a window with a ‘single pass’ using Reach-iT’s RADIAL Brush with HYDRO-BLADE II.
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UPDATED :THE REACH TECHNIQUE for RADIAL
It's The REACH-iT TECHNIQUE updated with four distinctions:
1. A slight angle on the brush on long-stroke UP AGITATIONS, assists the water flowing off to the side faster.
2. An angle of 40-45 DEGREES is preferred across the top frame is better - we use gravity to ‘pull’ the water out of the top end jets across the top frame, preventing wetting above the agitation (assuming a balanced flowrate).
3. ‘ROLL THE BRUSH’ through the corners to get the radial bristles to ‘dig and pick’ debris from the corners (compared to pushing the brush into the corners like we do with ALL-ROUNDER).
4. ANGLE THE BRUSH at 10° towards the frame (the same as we do with a squeegee blade) on the down-stroke (RINSE ACTION) so we are flushing the edge of the window (often more hydrophobic).
If you don’t get good results with WATER FED, it can only come down to technique -
There are two stages to cleaning a window : AGITATION - getting dirt into water
REMOVAL - getting dirty water off glass
With water fed, AGITATION is by SCRATCH, SCRAPE or GRAB - scratch with bristles, scrape with wires, or grab with microfiber, rubber, or magic eraser.
REMOVAL is by RINSE with pure water.
It is possible to AGITATE in the up-stroke and RINSE in the down-stroke with REACH-iT brushes
Hydrocarbons - bristles leave little scratchy lines in the dirt : USE MICROFIBER with DETERGENT
Artillery Fungus, Fly poo, Paint Overspray - USE WIRE scrapers like steel wool, bronze wool, ‘cheese grater’
BEE POO - use GREEN RUBBER
CLAY DUST cooked on glass- USE GREEN RUBBER
STICKER RESIDUE - USE MAGIC ERASER (many agitation cycles required)
SILICON and plasticizer creeping into glass from frames - USE MAGIC ERASER
STAINS on ALUCABOND - USE MAGIC ERASER
STANDARD DUST - use NYLON BRISTLES
SPIDER WEBS IN CORNERS - USE RADIAL BRISTLES, rolling them through the corners
OXIDIZED FRAMES - use two stage cleaning - frames first, as well as glass, then glass only, avoiding top 1 inch, so as not to re-disturb oxidized paint or aluminum.
SPOTS : you wet above the agitation zone
SCRATCH MARKS in dirt - you chose the wrong brush for agitation - go to WEAPON, or RADIAL ROCKER.
ALL RINSE action should be with BRUSH-ON-GLASS!
REALLY DIRTY WINDOWS: angle the brush 10-15 degrees in the up-stroke so you are letting the water get away from the brush quickly , otherwise, you are bulldozing the dirt up the glass, and it will be in your down-stroke rinse.
When cleaning against the frame, the glass is often HYDROPHOBIC - angle the brush TOWARDS the glass (like we do with a squeegee) is the rinse is running toward and down the frame (especially with RADIAL)
Across the TOP FRAME - your technique is to create a BUFFER ZONE - be careful to angle the brush 30-40 degrees (the same as a squeegee) to avoid wetting above the agitation (if cleaning frames, apply the same logic to the top of the frame) so the jetstreams do not wet above where your bristles have been, lest they introduce dirt into the down-stroke rinse .
Always use full length strokes to clean top to bottom of the window for greater efficiency, and to stop pushing dirty water up and down in little scrubby strokes.
If possible, use a brush wider (when splayed) than 50% the width of the window - clean down left frame, clean down right frame, overlap in middle - TWO PASSES ONLY per cleaning cycle - repeat as needed for dirty windows.
Observe the behavior of the water in the rinse strokes - any debris on the glass will distort the cascade, and create an inverted teardrop shape as the water goes round the debris. Re-agitate as required.
What’s important is the EFFICIENCY of SINGLE ACTION cleaning - AGITATE on UPSTROKE, RINSE on DOWNSTROKE.
The bristle blade on a REACH-iT brushes is actually impermeable - water does not go through it - water sits on top if it, and inherits the broken surface tension on the glass, such that ALL DOWNSTROKES have CASCADING WATER, i.e. all HYDROPHOBIC glass behaves HYDROPHILIC.
This is the function of the top blade.
As the bottom blade is also impermeable, it's role is like a squeegee - to get dirty water off the glass so when the top HYDRO-BLADE / BRISTLE BLADE integral pass down the glass, there is less dirty water to remove - it's job is not to REMOVE DIRTY WATER, as in all other brushes - it is to LEAVE PURE WATER to dry spot free. Caveat : of course, it has a reduced function of removing dirty water, especially in the up-stroke.
Each brush from all suppliers have three aspects - SWIVEL (or not), BRISTLES (or SCRUBS) and RINSE with pencil jets / fan jets / rinse bars.
The technique determines the efficiency, as all TUCKER have AGITATION and RINSE, all GARDINER have AGITATION and RINSE, all IONICS, UNGER, BROOM-BRUSHES, and REACH-IT have AGITATION and RINSE.
The technique to use each determines the EFFICIENCY, as ALL brushes, ALL brands can clean windows (it's not rocket science to scrub and rinse) - the question is WHICH CAN CLEAN FASTER?
We are proud to have advocate customers earning up to $450 an hour with RADIAL and ROCKER on premium jobs... That's an exciting and momentous change from 5 years ago when we started the HI-TECH REVOLUTION of window cleaning brushes.
This technique is excellent with windows that have thick frames, you have to be skilled to make sure you don't get water on the frame above which is slightly trickier with thinner frames as on older windows, unless you clean the top frame first. But the Radial brush is without a doubt far superior to other brushes. Rinse on the glass is the only way to clean, coupled with the swivel and radial bristles makes it so smooth and thorough. Expensive, but worth every penny. Thanks Perry!
The REACH-iT TECHNIQUE : PDF (English & Español)
A great way to help with the crews.